Small, Ural

Small, Ural

Who was practicing wearing shoes Nicholas the Wonderworker and where is the navel of the Earth.

Where to go traveller in Russia in the winter? Everyone answers this question differently. Some are looking for somewhere warm Yes cozy, choosing a quality resorts of Krasnodar region. Others, however, prefer the austere Russian Outback with its dazzling radiance of the snow, ancient history and simple, but so real earthly pleasures. The correspondent of the portal visited the hospitable the land of Perm and found that it has paid off.

Cold sun of Parma

Perm minus six degrees Celsius mean minus 16 in Moscow. What a pity that arithmetic Kama climate guests from the capital was destined to understand only at the airport Big Savino. Cost still to arm wool scarf, pants with fleece and warm hat. Would not hurt, and socks heated. However, the situation was corrected the sun in these latitudes in the winter much more than in the Western part of the country.

In the Perm must arrive in a good mood and preferably in winter or summer. But not in the offseason, not to spoil the first impression of Perm Krai, as happened, for example, with Anton Pavlovich in 1890.

Kama — priscacara river. To understand its beauty, one must be a Pecheneg, sitting motionless on a barge near a barrel of oil or sack of dried fish and incessantly pull savoldi. Shore bare, the trees are bare, the ground brown stretch of snow, and the wind was such that the devil himself will not be able to blow so sharp and nasty.Anton Chekhov

And all because the writer arrived there in April. Here’s how to change its evaluation after 12 years during the June visit in 1902.

“Kama is a wonderful river. It would be necessary we could hire for the whole family steamer and go slowly to Perm and back again, and it would be country life the real, what we never dreamed of. Might want to think about it.”

Legends Of Perm

Paradoxically, the cold, the wind and the cold sun over the Kama turned out to be the breeding ground for the development of a variety of types of creative activity. Creativity with the Perm residence permit in Russia rolls — hard to find a city of the same relatively young (the team getting ready in 2023 to celebrate the 300th anniversary) and so rich in cultural wonders.

Here, in Perm, in the house on Sibirskaya street was born impresario Sergei Diaghilev, famous throughout the world of Russian ballet. Now, the family nest of an aristocrat is the most prestigious in high school. Inside the Museum, where are stored the personal belongings of Diaghilev and his family. There is a monument to the artist by Ernst Neizvestny.

Dynasty dyagilevykh has done a lot for the city. In particular, aristocratic surname had a hand in creating the pride of Perm Academic Opera and ballet theatre named after Tchaikovsky. They financed the construction of the main scenes of the Kama region.

With Perm the destinies of prominent men of his time. The city is considered the prototype of Yuriatin in his novel “Doctor Zhivago” by Boris Pasternak — writer visited Perm while working in the office Vsevolodo-vil’venskiy chemical plant. In this city, in Seminary studied the inventor of radio Alexander Popov. In the evacuation, there lived the composer Sergei Prokofiev.

Portrait of a Permian

Permyak — kind, considerate, with a twist. People are reading — library on every corner. Tech-savvy — and what to expect from a resident of promgigant, which made guns for the army and created engines for airplanes? The nature of the Nordic — alloy-irony and a sense of self-sufficiency.

To life or financial difficulties Permyak guest to complain just will not be.

Local strongly not stand comparison with its capital, Yekaterinburg. The rivalry between the two regional capitals historical city emerged almost simultaneously and argued for supremacy in the Urals. In other words, if you want to spoil the Permian mood, tell us about that wonderful seen in Yekaterinburg and what there such, what in Perm is not found.

Raise your voice — an extreme measure, the people here are sensitive.

— Team lazy mouth wide open, because and swallow some sounds, — explains the features of the speech of fellow historian Alexander Nechaev. And they claim that the alien will learn from the thousands of compatriots on the pronunciation of the word “Perm”.

Hear a hard “R” — everything is clear: the visitor.Alexander Necesitaras

The residents of the region an enduring love for the mass celebrations. Especially in honor of the open air festivals, the most famous of them — “the Call of Parma” (Cherdyn district) and “a Celestial fair” (Novokuznetsk). The first was founded by the famous writer Alexey Ivanov, the author of the novels “Cherdyn — Princess of the mountains”, “the Geographer globe drunk”, and is a Grand ethnic festival featuring re-enactors, and musicians. Kungur event — an event for those passionate about Aeronautics.

The correspondent of the portal was lucky enough to get on the “County carnival” in the architectural-ethnographic Museum “Khokhlovka” 40 km from the administrative centre of the region. In this picturesque place on a steep hill near the shore of the Kama river in the second half of the last century were brought masterpieces of wooden architecture from all over the region. Mill, threshing floor, salt gel the size of a mansion so different huts together reliably to form the ancient village.

People are not afraid nor frost, nor snow — Packed. The children descend from the steep hills on cheesecakes, playing king of the mountain. And one brave boy entertains the crowd by spinning flip directly from the stair railing in the snow.

The main exhibits of the Museum under the open sky — the wooden churches. Log cabins were blackened from time and the roof, as they say here, “grizzled”.

The secret is in the roofing material — shingles masters made from aspen. Over time, the roof of this wood has acquired a silvery sheen.Milan Fedorovichev

Wooden churches of the great Orthodox missionaries “planted” a new local pagans to the faith with fire and sword, but by persuasion and beautiful forms. Another proof of this was waiting for us in Perm.

Wooden gods

The clash of civilizations, Christian and pagan, here, in the Perm region, was also special. Artifacts of this particular method of treatment of the peoples of the bizarre figures from softwood.

Stored “wooden gods” in the “Temple of art”, as they call this place in Perm. While the gallery is located in the building of the Spaso-Preobrazhensky Cathedral and waiting for the move to the new location.

The collection of sculptures made by Amateur craftsmen. And there are elegant works created by adherence to Byzantine tradition. They felt the hand of a master painter. But who breathed in the wood new life, hardly ever able to find out. Artists of high level, such work was done, usually anonymously, in order not to compromise himself.

This page of its history the Russian Orthodox Church was always shy. The fact is that Christianization of the Finno-Ugric peoples and other tribes lived in Perm Krai, walked with difficulty. The natives were not against the new God and Orthodox saints, but the icon is not perceived at all. The consciousness of the heathen demanded a more specific embodiment of powerful forces close to the usual idols. Then the missionaries made the images three-dimensional. Partly useful experience of Catholics. So there was Nicholas with dark sword, the sculpture “the Lord of hosts”, the archangels and angels with the face of Peter the Great, gospel characters.

The natives continued to pray “our and your” that was not satisfied missionaries. The priests had invented new ways to shift the attention of the parishioners of the Orthodox Church.

Here is the sculpture of St. Nicholas as a man stood in one of the temples of the Perm region. People believed that at night the statue comes to life, the Saint goes from house to house, solves their problems. They brought food sculpture and each year sewed for him leather shoes. Missionaries nights artificially worn shoes to maintain the faith of the parishioners.Vladimir Bereznegovatoye contemporary art Department at the art gallery

The exhibits were taken for x-rays, and found that the details of the sculptures are connected to each other with complicated fastenings. Craftsmen with years greatly complicated the structure of their creations.

Ashamed of these lovely, lovingly made figures of not only the Christian dignitaries, but also the Soviet regime. Wooden sculpture had been ordered to burn. The fires kindled, the will of the party did. The only difference is that the fire killed a few logs. Collection stashed keepers, so that in the years to once again show the world these amazing monuments of history and culture of the Perm region.

People sculptures stuck. So much so that during the moving of the wooden saints in the Museum (in Soviet times they were actively collecting around the edge and took in the gallery) they were satisfied with seeing the whole village. In the last way.

— Crying, praying. Gladly parted with only one sculpture — “the Lord of hosts.” The peasants seemed that God shows them the language, says Beresnev.

According to him, the “wooden gods” the population was reverent than to the icons — the Museum had to extract the flat image even from the fence.

— There was a case when icon made the shovel — says our interlocutor.

He looked at the tea in the cave

Kungur was once a centre of the mining district, but went down in history as the tea capital of Russia. The formation of the main national drink is associated with the name of the merchant Alexei Gubkin — he established a large wholesale trade in tea. Interestingly, the tile tea at the time, was a real currency, and quite solid.

Once Kungur was a busy commercial port city. Life flourished here, and all refill merchants. By the way, the city has a unique Museum dedicated to the life of this class. A curious exhibit — waterproof boots, which local merchants made a fortune. The secret of the tightness was in the method of bonding pieces of leather and soles with… wooden nails. Here’s nanotechnology.

Today that Kungur is not a province, says only an unusual art object called the navel of the Earth. He looks more like the core of the Tsar cannon, dug into the earth at the equator. Around the monument there is the rose of the winds. At the navel bears the mileage from this landmark point to Moscow, Sydney, Beijing, Paris and other world capitals.

Kungurtau should be given credit for a sense of humor — no one except them and it never occurred to exalt the beloved city, though he many times known respectable and Kungur.

Special historical value of this object has not, but as a striking landmark took root. The youth agrees “to meet at the navel.” Tourists willingly photographed on his background. It’s like kilometer zero in Moscow.

And still the main landmark of the town is the famous Kungurskaya cave. It was the first such object, open not only for speleologists but also for everyone. A mass pilgrimage to a mysterious and beautiful place started in 1914, when the native of Kungur traveler Alexander Khlebnikov rented a plot of land along with a cave. He settled at the entrance, he personally led tours. Gradually, the tourists became more and more. So in 1969, in Kungur opened a travel Agency and excursions.

What makes a tourist first entering the cave? That’s right — shouts, hoping to hear the echo.

— U-a-u! ‘I shouted, so as not to scare the group.

But the echoes of silence — the sounds of voices faded, barely touching the plaster walls. The cave at first seemed to me rather narrow. We walked behind the long chain guide. Then space expanded. This effect is enhanced with tasteful colored lights, illuminating the beauty of the cave. Memory obligingly slipped the definition of the curriculum — stalactites, stalagmites, stalagnates. All these treasures underground caves, a bizarre lit, flickered and shimmered in the eyes of the frozen admiration of the group.

Suddenly opened an underground lake, one of 70 lakes of Kungur cave. Travel I collect… ponds. In other words, swimming where possible, in any weather. Here and there, without thinking, flung their clothes off and dived into the crystal abyss. Anyway, to the bottom I got. The cold water invigorated and bitter taste.

Suddenly for me in the dungeon lights went out. I fell behind and didn’t hear the officers warned the group about a short power outage is to ensure that tourists understand how it’s dark in here.

— It is proven that in total darkness in human acute hearing, and you can even catch the falling droplets in a nearby cave, — said the guide.

Was the end of our one-mile underground walk. To get to the light of God, we had to go goose step — the path narrowed.

Finally they came out! — with these words we met another group of tourists — while some tourists do not leave the cave, others will not be included.

And buses with travellers all arrived and arrived. By the way, on the outskirts of Kungur even built a hotel for those who want to linger in these parts longer.

But man-made miracle of Kungur can be called Vyazovskiy stick. Although there was this brand not so long ago, with the efforts of just one of a large family.

Building Elm-Kozubovych the brightest. These amazing people have become famous all over the country the skill in making cakes. Vyazovskiy cakes have collected all of the prizes at the competitions tourist Souvenirs. This is a family workshop. Galina and Igor elm Kozhuhova — five children. Older ones help their parents on the sweet production. What gingerbread was not baked in the home workshop! The most interesting — hours. Galina has long taught decorative arts artists-fishers. The house has many wooden Handicrafts, paintings, and the walls are decorated with ethnic patterns. Building Elm-Kozubovych open to sightseers and lovers of master classes.

What to bring with you from Kama

The gastronomic Goodies from the Perm region are not limited to gingerbread. Here gather sweet honey, and sweets of local production known throughout the country. The tastiest are chocolates with liqueur, cherry jelly, fruit gummies, dried fruit in chocolate.

Gourmets certainly would have brought a ravioli of local manufacturers, but not, alas, get a cooler.

It’s a pity to leave the homeland “ear meat” without this delicacy. By the way, here popular and other fillings for ravioli, for example, cabbage. However, the dumplings and their relatives, “Pasechnikov”, you can “export” in the cookbook — has caught the eye of vivid regional publications.

As a gift to a lady in Perm taking jewelry and jewelry made in a unique Perm animal style. Shamanic stuff with animals — this cultural phenomenon appeared in the VII century BC. And still the local fishers make such decorations and furnishings.

What else? Needless to say, any Desk at work or the glass Cabinet in the apartment will be decorated with products made of Ural stones. Competition malachite boxes will be made from serpentine stone. By the way, it is much cheaper than malachite.